We’re in the coastal suburb of Vouliagmeni which is the undisputed jewel in the Athens Riviera crown. A green suburb with several well-maintained parks, expensive apartments, several beaches to choose from & luxury super-yachts moored in the tranquil bay.
The place is secluded & peaceful enough to feel like its own island.
The unseasonal rain has stopped. The air is cool, the sea breeze refreshing. We have been spared the devastation unleashed in central Greece in Thessaly, where four flooding rivers created a huge inland lake. More rain fell in a day than usually falls in a year. Helicopters & rescue teams lifted people off their balconies & rooftops.
We walk through the park to Zaxos the local souvlaki grill to enjoy our first pork yiro pita wrap. One of the first things you have to do when you visit Greece is to order a freddo (cold) cappuccino & a spanakopita (spinach & feta) phyllo pie at the local bakery for breakfast. The large filled square of phyllo is hand rolled crisp & crunchy.
Then you have to eat a pork souvlaki stick or a pork yiro pita wrap. It’s a time-honoured tradition. No deviations are allowed.
The quinoa, avocado, truffle oil & salmon brigade have their own place in the sun at their minimalist spot nearby where they go to pout & stare at their screens while they eat. It’s clean, virtuous even healthy eating but that’s not why you come to Greece.
Zaxos, the old-school souvlaki grill opened its doors in 1980 & I have been enjoying their food since my first visit back in 1985.
Chrissie was not sure whether she wanted the traditional pork specialities or the bifteki grilled beef patties. I try to convince her to try the pork which is shaved in thin strips off the vertical rotisserie and wrapped in a thick, soft chewy pita with sliced red onion, tomato & tzatziki. The pork is always crispy on the outside yet juicy & succulent on the inside.
She bravely tries to order in Greek. She asks the waiter for a “gourouni palamaki”. The waiter, a white haired veteran, is used to hearing the Greek language mangled so indiscriminately by visiting Americans, Australians & South Africans. He smiles politely & nods!
She asked the man for a clapping pig!
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🐷
He understood that what she actually wanted was a “xoirino kalamaki” – a pork (souvlaki) stick.
The food arrives within minutes of us placing our order. As always the portions are generous, the foos is delicious & filling. Consistency is king. We leave sated but we need to complete our sidewalk feast with a long walk & a cool, cleansing fig sorbet at the local ice-cream parlour & all is well in our little corner of the world.